TRAVELS & ADVENTURES
My family and I wake up on Monday morning in Yosemite National Park. Today is the day we are going to see El Capitan, one of the most iconic sites in the entire Yosemite Valley. I look out the window to check the lighting conditions for photography. Dark clouds are in abundance, a rather ominous sign. The decision is made-I'm wearing rain gear today.
Never having been to Yosemite National Park, I decided to start doing research in anticipation of taking a trip there. Being a lover of waterfalls, from what I could tell, this could be one of the coolest places on earth. With this is mind, 2 problems became evident-time of year and drought conditions. Going there in May of 2017 solved both problems!
Lisa and I have finally reached the Maasai Mara in Kenya, after a long drive from Lake Nikuru. The Mara has been a much anticipated part of out trip, an enormous game reserve-a photographer's dream. This said, today we're headed to the Enkutoto Village in the Rift Valley Province where we'll see an incredible Maasai village. Mui Gai, our guide, has arranged for us to experience the people and culture of this area, a truly remarkable opportunity.
Lisa and I have been driving up the coast of Croatia for several days now. The Roman influence on culture and architecture in Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar has been very impressive. It is now time, however, to head inland for the first time in Croatia to see what I've been told is a natural treasure. We arrive in Plitvice Lakes National Park, one of the waterfall havens of the world. I love UNESCO World Heritage sites, and this made it to the register in 1979.
Cliff and I left Bamako and have made it through the check point. Our destination today is Djenne, home of The Great Mosque and the Old Towns, both designated world heritage sites by UNESCO in 1988. Before we tour the area, however, we check into a place to stay. Things are quite spartan around here! Not to worry though-Cliff has paid off the manager, and we have landed an air conditioned unit. Now, all I have to deal with is the communal shower and bathroom facilities.
Djenne is an urban commune in the Inland Niger Delta region of central Mali. It's history is closely associated with that of Timbuktu. The trans-Saharan trade in salt, gold and slaves moved between Timbuktu and Djenne between the 15th and 17th centuries. Both areas became important centers of Islamic scholarship, but declined after the Portuguese established trading posts on the African coast.
Our first stop today is the Great Mosque of Djenne, a large building made of adobe that many architects consider one of the great achievements of the Sudano-Sahelian style. Dating back to to its inception in the 13th century, this edifice has been remade several times, and is considered one of Africa's most famous landmarks.
As we approach the mosque, I'm taken aback by the sea of locals interacting with each other in the central market nearby. They dress in colorful robes and hats. From what I can tell, Cliff and I are the only white tourists around here and stick out like sore thumbs.
The first thing that strikes me as I view the mosque are its signature trio of minarets. The walls are made of sun-baked earth bricks known as ferey. Held together by mortar, these adobe blocks are comprised of sand and earth. A plaster coating is then applied that imparts a smooth, sculpted look. What gives this building its unique appearance are bundles of rodier palm sticks, or toron, that project about 2 feet from the surface. The toron serve as a scaffolding that workers scale annually to make repairs.
We leave the Djenne Mosque and head towards more of the Old Towns. These are serial properties comprised of four archaeological sites that include Djenne-Djeno, Hambarketolo, Kaniana and Tonomba. This area is huge, and represents typical sub-Sahran architecture. The adobe buildings all have a distinctive style of verticality and buttresses with intricate facades, unlike anything I've seen in Africa to date.
While the architecture in this area is characterized by a rare harmony that bears witness to hints of what was once a thriving pre-Islamic civilization, I'm most captivated by the locals meandering down the streets. I see numerous women carrying various paraphernalia on their heads as they go about their business. A man is pushing a wheel- barrow with balls of soap down a dirt road, presumably heading to market. What a scene!
As the day ends, Cliff and I sit together sharing a bottle of wine that we have brought from the States. I find myself very aware of how special travel in the third world can be. The architecture and people of Djenne have been remarkable! Now on to Dogon Country.
Lisa and I get off the plane, and our driver heads towards Cappadocia. My research before deciding to go to Turkey made me quite certain that this was a destination not to be missed. In fact, I had seen a short documentary about this area on public broadcasting. The hot air balloons, Zelve Fairy Chimneys, Goreme Valley Open Air Museum, Red and Rose Valleys, all looked quite other-worldly. I'm excited.
This is the ancient region of Anatolia, a world heritage site near the Black Sea, that has existed in various forms since 499 BC. The incredible natural wonders, as well as the unique historical and cultural heritage, have drawn me to this region.
I get up early the next morning, walk outside of our bungalow, and there they are-an incredible assortment of hot air balloons strewn throughout the sky. These balloons are gently drifting as far as my eye can see, taking in the surrealistic landscapes below. Their purview includes the Fairy Chimneys with unique rock formations, impressive valleys and colorful vineyards, all of which we will be seeing on foot over the next two days.
We hop into the van and head to the Goreme Valley Open Air Museum. As we step out of the vehicle, I'm absolutely amazed by the monastic complex in front of me. There are numerous refectory monasteries lined up side-by-side, each with it's own church. These rock-cut structures have beautiful frescoes that lace the walls, making this rock hewn architecture one of the truly unique sites to see in Turkey. These churches were chiseled into the rock in front of us between the 10th and 12th centuries.
It's now afternoon, and we get dropped off at the Zelve Fairy Chimneys. I'll have to say, in my travels I have never seen a natural phenomenon that looks like this. For the record, this canyon came about from volcanic rock and erosion. Legend has it, however, that a holy man was being chased by soldiers in this valley. Through an act of God, the soldiers were transformed in rock, hence, the Fairy Chimneys were created.
There is an element of human culture that combines with the mystical quality of the geologic beauty of the formations in front of us. Remnants of ancient societies are in evidence here with old doorways and windows noted in many of the rock spires.
The next day I wake up to find that Lisa is feeling under the weather and won't be accompanying me on the planned excursion. Not to worry-I grab my camera bag and hop into the van. My guide and I are headed to the Rose and Red Valleys for a day's trek through some amazing terrain.
Starting at Sunset Point near Ortahisar, we hike through the Red Valley. Approaching the Panoramic View Point, dovecotes and fresco'd churches come into view. The Rose and Red valleys get their names from the reddish rose-colored rock that comprises the terroir here. The hue and intensity of the rocky contours varies depending on the time of day, season and weather conditions. The orchards and vineyards, together with the geologic formations, blend together to create a compelling landscape.
The day has come to an end. Lisa is feeling better, and we sit in a restaurant sharing a bottle of wine. My research has proven to be correct. Because Cappadochia has such natural beauty with incredible rock formations and fresco'd churches carved out of stone promontories, I feel lucky to have taken all this in. Unfortunately, I know that the specter of ISIS and the war in Syria will make travel in this part of the world dangerous for years to come.
Cliff and I have spent the better part of the last 2 weeks taking 6-seater planes around the northern part of the large island-nation of Madagascar, just off the east coast of Africa. Near the tail end of our time on this remarkable land mass, we hop on a plane and head south from Tara to Fort Dolphin in Tolagnaro. It is now just a few hours by van until we reach our destination, the Berenty Reserve. I know we will run into large colonies of ring-tailed and white sifaka lemurs down here. Another attraction, however, is the tombs, landscapes, village people and Boabab trees that make this area special as well.
The history of this reserve dates back to 1936 at which time the De Healme family founded a sisal plantation adjacent to the Mandrare River in agreement with the Tandroy Tribe. Today I'm seeing the incredible Spiny Forest of southern Madagascar that includes ancient tamarind trees and dried open scrub. There are numerous fruit bats as well as 103 bird species here. It is now clear to me why many television programs featuring ring-tailed lemurs are shot in this location.
As we tour the area, it is quite evident that this is an important research hub. Scientist and students from all over the world congregate here to conduct field work on different forms of lemur society. Due to rich, well watered soil in a dry land, this gallery forest holds dense, natural lemur populations, perfect for study.
Cruising around this area, I am amazed at the diversity of the Malagasy people. Our guide tells us that there are 18 ethnic groups that vary widely in appearance, traditions and beliefs. While 50% have been converted to Christianity, the remainder live in old traditions, characterized by unique beliefs and legends.
The first thing that I notice is that each tribe has a distinctive look, including facial features and unique clothing. Merina, the largest tribe, originally migrated to this island from Indonesia. Having dominated the country from the 16th century until it was designated a French colony in 1987, they settled in and around the capital, Antananarivo. Eventually, their society was split into three classes: the Andriana (nobles), Hova (free men) and Andevo (slaves).
Besides seeing the lemurs and the natives, another really cool thing we come across are the tombs. I'm told that the Antandroy people, a nomadic group of Madagascar, has inhabited the southern part of this island since the 17th century. Members of this ethnic group demonstrate great respect for their ancestors. They have complex funeral rites, utilizing elaborately decorated burial monuments.
Continuing on through the Spiny Forest, I love the majestic baobab trees that make this area very distinctive. These are icons of the African continent, from which many traditional African remedies emanate. A prehistoric species, the baobab is believed to be 200 million years old, antedating the splitting of the continents. Despite the extremely arid climate, this tree has adapted to its environment and is considered a symbol of life in harsh circumstances. Baobab trees survive for up to 5,000 years by absorbing and storing water in their vast trunks during the rainy season. This allows them to produce a nutrient-dense fruit in the dry season which sustains them, hence the name, "Tree of Life."
Our time in the Berenty Reserve is coming to a close. We return to our spartan accommodations to have dinner and then retire to our mosquito nets to get some sleep. Madagascar is an enormous island, and the southern tier has really shown me how diverse the geography is here. I look forward to reviewing my photos of this trip on my way back to the USA.
We've left Ho Chi Minh and are traveling up the coast of South Viet Nam adjacent to the South China Sea, as we head towards Hanoi. This stop is Hoi An, a city with an historic district that is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port. It's much easier to walk around in this province of approximately 120,000 than it was in Ho Chi Minh. I took my life in my hands every time I tried to cross the street there, with its high traffic volume and dearth of stoplights.
My first impression as I walk through the Ancient Town is that the buildings and street plan combine Chinese, Japanese and European influences, dating back from the 15th to the 19th centuries. During this time period, Hoi An was a focal point for active trade between East Asia, South-East Asia and the rest of the world.
Quite evident from the outset are wooden structures that appear well preserved. The buildings reflect the architecture of the last several centuries, invoking the feeling of being in a traditional Asian trading port. I meander down narrow pedestrian streets where the houses are tiled and wooden carvings of Vietnamese design make the construction look unique.
While the architecture is of great interest to me, just standing in the streets and watching the locals cruise by is one of my favorite pastimes. The culture in this area developed over the last 2,000 years during which the Cham people began populating this trading haven. These settlers were Hindu, although by the 10th century, many converted to Islam after coming in contact with Arab traders.
Barreling down the street is a man pulling a cart, teeming with lumber. I have no idea what this will be used for. Soon after he makes it past me, I see a woman ambling with what appears to be a cross bow across her shoulder, balancing wares that she is transporting. Her face is covered, perhaps for sun protection.
Continuing down the main thoroughfare of the Old Town, or Tran Phu, there are numerous winding lanes and Chinese-style shop houses, all well preserved despite evidence of mass tourism outside the historic district. Just south of the Old Town, across the Thu Bon River, the island of An Hoi is visible to the west, while Cam Nam is in sight to the east.
As I pass the Japanese Covered Bridge's Pagoda on the west end of Tran Phu Street, our trip to Hoi An is coming to an end. I have developed a deep affection for South-East Asian culture and heritage. The architecture, local people, cuisine and diverse influences, make Hoi An an important memory in my world travels.
We've spent a few days in Lhasa, the fascinating capital of Tibet. Now my friends, Cliff Malzman and Mark Field, and I pile into a van for an excursion to Shigatse, the traditional capital of Tsang province. This is no ordinary trip. Our driver does not appear to recognize his own mortality as he speeds up and down the foothills of the Himalayas at breakneck speeds on a single lane with winding roads. I have my eyes shut much of the time, hoping this is not my final trip!
Today we're going to explore the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery on the west side of town. Sponsored by the Mongols of the Gelupa order, this monastery has been the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama. I'm learning a lot about Buddhism today and a little about Chinese-Tibetan politics. My head is spinning.
Founded in 1447 by the first Dalai Lama, the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery is considered historic and culturally important. This site was invaded and captured in 1791 by the Gorkha Kingdom. The invaders, however, were eventually driven back to the outskirts of Katmandu by a combined Tibetan and Chinese army.
The Panchen Lamas rank as the second highest tulku lineage in Tibetan Buddhism. While asserting temporal power over several small districts in the area, they remain under the ultimate control of a dzongpon, or prefect, appointed from Lhasa.
Our driver lets us out at the bottom of a hill where this structure has an imposing appearance. As we ascend an incline on our way to the entrance of the monastery, I am well aware of a sense of serenity that is consuming me. Despite being the second largest city in Tibet, this section is relatively quiet. The temperature is cool with low humidity. There is an other-worldliness to this. We approach the door and leave our shoes outside before entering.
Consistent with Bhuddist principles, the monastery endeavors to maintain peace and harmony within individuals, as well as the world at large. The monks are taught to be good to human beings and to promote a sense of responsibility and service. This is the dogma espoused by His Holiness, the Dalai Lama.
We are now in the halls of the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery. Impossible to miss is a gigantic statue of the Maitreya Buddha which stands 86 feet tall. He is situated on a lotus throne with his hands in a symbolic teaching pose. Composed of 279 kg of gold and 15,000 kg of copper and brass, this statue was crafted on a wooden frame by Tibetan and Nepalese artisans.
Drifting through the monastery, we end up in large courtyard known as Chuajling Duogang. My eye is immediately caught by a Tibetan woman standing next to her son with a bell in her right hand. The bell, or dribu, is a ritual object used in what are known as Tantric rites, symbolic of skill and compassion, the indestructible power to cut through ignorance.
Our morning at the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery is reaching its conclusion. Coming from the United States, I'm well aware of my dearth of knowledge about Buddhism. It is astounding for me to wrap my arms around the fact that this is the world's fourth-largest religion, with over 500 million followers, or approximately 7% of the world's population. Almost everyone I've come in contact with today appears content. I'm quite sure the Buddhists know something that Westerners don't.
Cliff and I have traveled from Vientiane to Luang Prabang in north central Laos. Designated a World Heritage Site in 1995, this town has some of the most well preserved architectural, religious, and cultural locales that have been developed over several centuries. No trip to this area would be complete without visiting the neighboring Hmong village where we're headed today.
